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 Wine & Pincers
by John Fischer

00001.gif Name a quintessential summer pastime. Okay, not that one. How about the cookout? Long, lazy afternoons, dinner's scents wafting along on gentle breezes, and barefoot, al fresco dining. Now take a cookout and hold it on a beach in New England. The shore dinner is one of the more venerable (and enjoyable) summer meals possible.

The star of the shore dinner is, arguably, our friend the lobster. Although the beverage of choice to match the lobster at a shore dinner is an ice cold beer, here are some wine recommendations to go with Homaris Americanis.

Boiled or Steamed Lobster with drawn butter and lemon
For the purist. Since the preparation is so simple, a big white could be a show-stopper. Chardonnay from California or a barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc like Murphy-Goode Reserve would do nicely. Champagne would be perfect.

Grilled Lobster with Tarragon Butter
The flavors of this dish are more intense, and the butter adds some richness. An Alsatian or German Riesling would have a combination of intensity and refreshing acidity. If choosing German, try a Spätlese (late-picked) because it will have more body. If you serve grilled lobster without the butter sauce, a dry rosé such as McDowell Grenache Rosé or Guigal Tavel would do nicely. Staying with rosé, try a pink Champagne like the Pol Roger '88 Rosé or Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé.

Lobster Thermidor
Hedonism on a plate. Lobster is rich, the sauce is rich. What happens if you pair it with a rich wine? Too rich! In this case, a wine with a hefty dose of acid would do the trick, cutting through all the richness in the dish. Because there is so much flavor here, though, a light wine will not hold up - - good body and structure are needed. In this case, Champagne is my first recommendation. La Grande Dame from Clicquot, Bollinger Grande Année, any of the bigger Champagnes will work well. For still wines, Chalone Pinot Blanc or a powerhouse Sauvignon Blanc like Babcock "11 Oaks Ranch" would work very well.

You'll notice that I haven't recommended any red wines. Most reds would not be compatible, but if the sauce was either tomato- or red wine-based, a lightly chilled Loire red or a light Pinot Noir could be nice, or a light Chianti. Still, I would stick with the whites or rosés. Hey, it's summer!

So have a lobster dinner and bring some wine. Remember that Champagne is a sure bet with any lobster preparation; just be sure to get one that is the right style for the dish. Here at Rainbow, we're always looking for an excuse to crack open a bottle of bubbly -- and I just gave you a great one!



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