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Spice

I love spicy food. I am addicted to chili peppers. I have to get extra napkins at Thai and Southwestern restaurants because I sweat so much. Attractive, no?

Most folks drink beer (or margaritas) with hot stuff, usually because that's what is available where spicy food is served. Lack of availability is not the only reason that wine is not often the beverage of choice when chili peppers are involved. Here's why.

Capsaicin, the hot component of chili peppers, is an alkaloid that has an inflammatory effect on skin tissues, especially the tender ones in your mouth. There are actually several different capsaicins, each with a different "burn," which explains why jalapeños hurt in a different way than Szechuan peppers.

That wonderful burn can be exacerbated by two components that are common to wines -- namely, acid and tannin.

We know what acid can do to skin -- we've all seen Batman Forever, with the half-evil Two-Face scarred by an acid attack. Similarly, tannin gets its name from the fact that it is used in the process of tanning leather. So, think about how acidic or tannic wine feels in your mouth, and whether you would like hot pepper on top of that. Yee-yah.

Follow these guidelines and your wine/spicy food combos won't hurt a bit:

• Low Acid - Mostly with regards to white wines, acid is higher in wines from colder climates, like Northern Italy or the Loire Valley. So avoid Pinot Grigio and Muscadet, but look for California Chardonnays and barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blancs. Rhone Whites, like Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc will also work.

• Body and Sweetness - Avoid high alcohol, since it can add to the burn. Extra body can come from barrel-fermentation or sweetness. Big Chardonnay will work, as will a slightly sweet Riesling like a Spätlese or an Auslese from Germany (Kabinetts tend to have the higher acid levels). Glycerin can be very soothing to the savaged mouth, but don't go all the way into dessert wines.

• Rosés - Just about every one of 'em is a great choice with hot food. Cold, refreshing, with a touch of body and red grape flavor. Yummy! The level of sweetness you choose is up to you, but again, watch out for high acid.

• Low Tannin - Stay away from big, young Cabernets from California and Bordeaux. Quaffing reds are the way to go; try Beaujolais (lightly chilled, even), Periquita, from Portugal, or some of the less intense reds from California. Good choices include Big House Red from Ca' del Solo, any of the Vintner's Blend series from Ravenswood, and the non-reserve reds of Murphy-Goode.

Wine can add pleasure to an evening of spicy and garlic-laden food. Just remember: Rosés are an almost sure-fire bet; watch out for high acid in white wine; and go with inexpensive, juicy reds when you want some color. Just remember: Now is not the time to try that '88 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Reserve.