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Keith Luce - Spruce (Chicago)
by Jeremy Jeffers
What were some of the factors that led to your becoming a chef? Actually, my grandfather was in the business, but I didn't want to get into it. After I spent some time working in restaurants in New York, though, I soon realized that it was in my blood. It was something that allowed me to be creative. I became passionate about it. In a way, I guess you could say that the career found me. Who has been the most significant influence on your cooking style? There have actually been several: my mother, my grandfather, Louis Puget, Jean-Jacques Rachou...they were some of the most important influences. How would you describe the menus that you have come up with for Spruce? We call them upscale contemporary American, but I should explain that I think American cuisine involves not only American products, but also the various cultures we have in this country -- and the various flavors they bring. Since you're only 28, I imagine you are very interested in the future of American cuisine. In what direction do you see it going over the next few years? In a way, the future of American cuisine looks very exciting, but, on the other hand, it is also very scary. There are so many young, forward-thinking chefs with quality in mind, but a large portion of the public still has a fast-food mindset. To develop as a nation, in a culinary sense, we need to understand that the product is most important and take advantage of our natural resources. Mass production is bad. While working under Walter Scheib at the White House, did you have to match your menus with the tastes of the guests who came from all over the globe? If so, was it enlightening learning about such a variety of cuisines? Yes, the time I spent at the White House was excellent for researching the flavors of various cultures, but we never tried to actually duplicate the cuisine of others. We did, however, use some flavors that were prevalent in their cuisine as influences on the dishes we prepared. Of course, we also took into consideration dietary concerns. It was definitely a great learning experience. Did you enjoy preparing dinner at the Beard House in January? It was something that I've always wanted to do. It was a wonderful experience. What restaurants do you frequent when you go out to eat in Chicago? Actually, I rarely go out. I can't think of a favorite restaurant, but there are some exciting places that I enjoy...like Confusion and Soul Kitchen.
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