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Katherine Mackenzie - Adriatica (Seattle)
by Jeremy Jeffers (continued)
What were some of the factors that led to your becoming a chef? I was always interested in food and used to experiment with cooking during college. I got a job at Bread and Circus [in Boston], a natural food grocery store with fresh produce, and started bringing things home and playing. I helped open another store where one-quarter of the space was a kitchen for to-go lunches -- I was always drawn toward it. I was told that if I stayed for a year I could learn everything that the chef knew, but then I moved to Seattle. When I arrived, I was immediately drawn to all of the food at the Pike Place Market, so for the first time I honestly contemplated having a career in the restaurant world. I had been planning to go to school for teaching. Then I got hooked up with some really good people by accident and have enjoyed every minute since. Who has been the most significant influence on your cooking style? Chris Albus, who I worked with at Pike Place Market [at Cucina Fresca] as well as various other places, was my mentor from when I first moved to Seattle. He has a lot of food knowledge and a lot of food history knowledge. He'll work and work on an ingredient until he knows it well. Our food philosophies are similar, as well. I like the food to speak for itself. I don't want to manipulate it into something else. I want to maintain the great flavors without masking anything -- that's beautiful. Chris runs the 74th Street Ale House now. I am sure that your current cooking style reflects your many travels and various restaurant experiences. How would you describe the cuisine that you are currently preparing for Adriatica? I try to stick with Mediterranean flavors. They've done a lot of Greek Mediterranean here, so I've brought Spanish and Morroccan influences. I always get a kick out of finding a new ingredient used in a Mediterranean dish -- for example, ginger in an Italian pasta. Southern French, Italian, and Greek cooking is so wonderful -- if done well, it can be so elegant. Are there any Pacific Northwest ingredients that you particularly enjoy working with? Why? I am personally fascinated with the fishing industry. I work closely with our suppliers to get Alaskan salmon, sturgeon, or whatever is looking good on that particular day. I try to feature local, fresh, or unusual fish. I'm just fascinated with fish. How important do you feel presentation is when preparing a dish? Flavor, of course, comes first, but presentation is second and can be a lot of fun. I'm thrilled with a presentation that can take my breath away, but simple natural arrangement, like flavors, can create wonderful presentations. I have a lot of fun using the plate as a "canvas" and am always coming up with new ideas, but I generally try to let the food do its own thing. Now that you have worked at Adriatica for a couple of years, are you happy with how things have worked out? Do you feel at home now in this restaurant that has been open for more than 15 years? Yes. It's always stressful the first year, but once you've done everything once you can settle in and have fun. I've found what my limitations in the kitchen are: How much room do I have? How many burners, coolers, etc. do I have to work with? How busy am I going to be? It takes a while to get used to, but the learning process can be lots of fun. We're now putting together a new menu. The main menu has some signature dishes that can't be taken off, but I will be running specials a week at a time. What restaurants do you frequent when you go out to eat in Seattle? Lately, some of the standard places I've been going are Palace Kitchen, Etta's Seafood, and 74th Street Ale House. Artulio's is also a favorite. I also try to check out what's new in town because there's been a real boom in the last couple of years.
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