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Foodsville, Baby!
by Amy Keyishian (continued)
And where else? Well, Steven Hall and Sam Firer, restaurant consultants and fresh-faced hipsters to boot, see a growing trend toward going out that has its roots in the restaurant boom of the mid-'80s. "They're spending a lot of their time in restaurants and in lounges and it's familiar, it's comfortable," says Hall. "And it's a little tongue-in-cheek, too. They're playing dress-up, playing grownup." And returning to the familiar terrain of their youth. And the restaurants -- no fools themselves -- are keeping up, following up the move toward lounge culture with a trend toward whimsical finger-food and appetizers that are easily shared. "A lot of places are incorporating names of cocktails into food, like at Flowers, where there's a grilled sea scallop margarita salad. There's no alcohol in it, but it's served in a margarita glass, with a lime vinaigrette, and of course there's salt all around the rim." Had enough? Hall hasn't. Citrus took it another step further," he adds. "They used to have a fried popcorn shrimp cocktail with shooters of bloody mary salsa and garlic mayonnaise. The shrimp was served in a rocks glass, and the sauces came in two shot glasses." Oh, CUTE! But the trend doesn't stop at drinkie-winkies. There is, after all, that little matter of nostalgia and our lost youth. At a recent lunch at the Jetsons-like Globe, the owner stopped by one table, greeted an acquaintance, and gave a cryptic word to the wise: Try the chocolate and cream wrap. It's a Yodel. And indeed it was -- a freshly-made, creamy, chocolatey snack-cake. What's next, herbed Jiffy Pop? Tang screwdrivers? Gorgonzola E-Z Cheese? Actual Scooby Snacks? Only time will tell. But the trend is clear: Today's young cool types like to play with their food. This all makes logical sense, of course. As Shoket points out, "A martini is a neat drink. It's four bucks for a beer, but for a couple bucks more you get a fancy glass and a stronger drink. You can indulge, and the only consequence is that you have to scrimp on lunch the next day. It's only you." And for those who do want to indulge, but who can't afford a full meal at a schmantzy place, a couple of appetizers and a fancy cocktail is a nice compromise.
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