CuisineNet Header

header image


header.gif
 The Master Speaks: A Chat With Daniel Boulud

(continued)

DanielBoulud:
Yup. Very much. François is mastering the art of the patisserie, and Phillipe Bertineau, the chef, the art of the bistro.

M Swann:
I wonder what you think of the increasing Asian influences in cuisine today, particularly among European chefs in the States. Do you find this a healthy or exciting trend?

DanielBoulud:
For the past ten years, no, the past fifteen years, my main assistant, my number-one chef, has been Asian. From Sottha Khunn at the Plaza Athenée and Le Cirque to Alex Lee the chef at Daniel. And of course my goal and their responsibility is to cook French, but we both believe that a cross-cultural background makes it more exciting for each other to explore other cuisines. And to also make themelves happy, once in a while, they will cook a real Asian meal on the menu. So this is fusion at Daniel!

Spartacus:
Other than yourself, who is the best chef and who has the best restaurant in New York?

DanielBoulud:
Spartacus, are you a slave to your culinary passions? No, seriously, I have too many good friends to name them all. But I believe my favorites are Jean-Georges, Charlie Palmer, Tom Coliccio, Alfred Portale, Sotta Kuhn, Eric Ripert, Gray Kunz, and Eberhard Muller at Lutece. I think we are all great chefs, and we all are proud of each other, and ego aside, each of us believes he is the best. And that's what makes New York the best.

M Swann:
Some people have been critical of attempts at culinary empire building -- do you think some chefs (e.g. Bouley) go too far? Ought chefs to spend more time in their own kitchens?

josh:
We have never been to Paul Bocusefor just that reason. He seems to always be on the road.

DanielBoulud:
My passion is cooking. From an apprentice, I became a cook; from a cook, I took the challenge to become a chef de partie, to sous chef, to chef, to executive chef, to restaurateur, to entrepreneur ... and as long as I believe in quality and bring something positive to the industry, there is nothing wrong with expanding. The life span of a chef today (behind the stove) is fifteen years, and the most important things in our business are organization, communication, and trust. Enzo Ferrari doesn't tighten every bolt on his cars himself, but that doesn't mean he doesn't make the greatest cars in the world, eh? This said, I will finish this chat and run back to my kitchen very quickly.

M Swann:
Though this is no doubt rather a sentimental idea, I admire men like David Waltuck at Chanterelle and Bernard Pacaud at L'Ambroisie who keep relatively low profiles and remain committed to their kitchens.

DanielBoulud:
Yes, me too. I admire those chefs, but I guess I have a huge amount of energy and passion for my work that carry me beyond the kitchen.

steve v:
Aside from you, Charlie Trotter is one of my faves. Do you think he goes too far with his food?

DanielBoulud:
I have never been to Charlie's restaurant -- yet. But I know of his cooking, and I admire his creative talent and the complex combinations in his cuisine. He certainly tries harder and better than many chefs in America. In my opinion, today, the best upcoming chef is Thomas Keller in Napa Valley.

josh:
Where is Thomas Keller the chef?

steve v:
The French Laundry.

gary:
Can you tell us about your plans for the new restaurant at the Mayfair (the old site of Le Cirque)? When do you anticipate it opening? Who's designing it, and will the menu be different?

DanielBoulud:
The Mayfair is still in progress. Construction is starting next month; it should open by late '98. The mood will be Venetian Renaissance; the designer is Patrick Naggar, and the menu will be very much the style of cooking I have done in the past years. My style of cooking. With a lot of new focus on service, greater dining room service, including carving and presentation in the dining room. And a dream kitchen in which to prepare all this.

gary:
Have you seen the kitchen at Le Cirque 2000? I was recently there and was quite impressed.

DanielBoulud:
Le Cirque 2000 has very much the kitchen I wish to do for myself. We'll see.

M Swann:
What do you think of the increasing financial difficulties at three-star restaurants in France? Are there any good solutions?

M Swann:
And do top American restaurants face similar problems, in your opinion?

DanielBoulud:
I think France is in an economic crisis, and the first ones to be hurt are the three-star restaurants. But I think the art of French cooking will always survive these crises. The greatest worry is more for the generation to come, than for existing one. In America, you can dine in some of the greatest restaurants at half the cost of European ones, because we are doing twice the volume, spread over two seatings. So the economics work a little bit better, and in America, especially in New York, it is not always considered such a special event to go to a three-star restaurant. While back in France, it might be a once-in-a-special-occasion event, because of its high cost.

steve v:
How much does M. Payard still work at you restaurant?

DanielBoulud:
We talk every day on the phone, and my pastry chef and François and I constantly communicate between the two restaurants. My new pastry chef at Daniel is Remy Funfrock.

steve v:
Where did you get him from? Is he a disciple?

DanielBoulud:
Remy comes from the Moulin de Mougins, where my old mentor, Roger Verge, has his restaurant.

Spartacus:
How do you rate California wines in comparison to those of France and what are your favorites?

DanielBoulud:
Our wine list is composed of 60% French, 40% Californian.

pinky:
Daniel, I served a vegetable dish recently that was from your cookbook. It was a great success. It was the roasted winter vegetable with chestnut. Yummy! Any suggestions for the spring and summer vegetables?

DanielBoulud:
Keep reading! There are also spring and summer vegetable casseroles toward the end of the book.

pinky:
By the way, are you working on any new cookbooks?

DanielBoulud:
Yes. The book is starting up, and Dorie Greenspan of Baking with Julia and many other great achievements will help me. The book will certainly cover four main subjects: vegetables; fish and shellfish; meat and game; and fruits and patisseries.

DanielBoulud:
It should be out -- maybe the middle of '99. Just before the Millennium.

Page 1 2 3
 


  spacer.gif
cafeheader image


See 12,000 more Cities at DineSite.com!
© Copyright 1996-2001, DineCore, Inc.
All rights reserved