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 The Master Speaks: A Chat With Daniel Boulud

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M Swann:
What is the balance of vintages in your wine list, older or younger wines? Do you feel Americans tend to drink vins de garde prematurely, especially when engaging in 'conspicuous consumption' at top restaurants?

DanielBoulud:
Wine is a question of taste and thickness of wallet. I have great taste, but a thin wallet, and I always try to find a very nice value -- not always in the grand cru, but from up-and-coming new wine makers. Also, my sommelier, Jean-Luc Le Du, and I are planning a trip to France in the spring, where we'll spend ten days, from 9 in the morning until late at night, tasting wine. We'll discover new wine makers, and visit old classic masters in Burgundy, Côtes du Rhône, and Provence.

Spartacus:
Is there any difference in the uses of black truffles versus white truffles?

DanielBoulud:
Yes! The season for black truffles is now. White are available from September to December. I am running right now about eight dishes à la carte with black truffles. Come taste now, and again next fall (when the white truffles are back), and see the difference for yourself!

steve v:
how often do you change your menu?

DanielBoulud:
We change the à la carte menu about six times a year. In addition, each day we have new daily market specials, not to mention a $33 three-course prix fixe at lunch, which also changes daily.

josh:
Can you recommend any new or older restaurants in New York that are not so well known or that don't require a month's notice to get a table?

DanielBoulud:
Just last week I managed to slip away from the kitchen -- a very rare occurrence -- and tried the new Union Pacific on the site of the former C.T. It's on 22nd between Lex and Park, and the chef is Rocco DiSpirito -- creative and dedicated to quality. The ceviche of scallops and sea urchin with mustard seed was heavenly.

DanielBoulud:
Also my friend Laurent Manrique has just opened Gertrude's. It's both cozy and delicious.

josh:
Thanks for the tout. We'll try Union Pacific next time we come up. We tend to come up to New York on the spur of the moment, and have difficulty obtaining reservations at many good places.

FrederickCooke:
I know that Daniel will be moving to the former Le Cirque space. Do you have plans for the old Daniel space?

DanielBoulud:
We're going to open a more casual, cosmopolitan cafe/bistro featuring regional cuisine from all over France -- both hearty and comforting cuisine bourgeoisie as well as some updated, lighter fare.

gary:
I'm interested in learning about your caviar. What makes it special, and where do you get it from? And why did you decide to market caviar when there are so many good purveyors already?

DanielBoulud:
I decided to put a label on my private stock caviar because so many of my restaurant clients were asking me to order it for them from my supplier. They come to me for it, because they know that when they open the tin, they will only find the best inside. Caviar tins can sometimes be full of surprises. I felt confident in launching my private label caviar due to my very long relationship of trust with Browne Trading in Portland, Maine. Rod Mitchell, the owner, has been my faithful seafood supplier since I first became a chef in New York over seventeen years ago; he knows he can't put my label on any caviar that isn't the finest. You get what you pay for.

Judy:
A few years ago, upon being served some lovely soup at your restaurant, I realized that it would taste even better if it were warmer. I explained my problem to the waiter and suggested that he pop it into the microwave, but that he raised an eyebrow and told me that your kitchen had no microwave, but that he would be happy to warm my soup on the stove top. I realize that different kinds of soups may need to be treated differently. But do you have a general aversion to microwaves -- even for reheating food?

DanielBoulud:
It's important to use the right tool for the right task. If you try to use a microwave just to save time, you may damage the quality and consistency of your ingredients. But I must admit that Santa Claus did recently give me a microwave for Christmas.

josh:
Thank you for your time tonight. I hope to meet you someday soon. Is there a secret to getting a table at your restaurant at the last minute?

DanielBoulud:
It is a good idea to call the same day around 5 p.m. to see if there are any cancellations. Keep an open mind and be flexible about seating times -- we'd love to have you!

FrederickCooke:
Well, we're out of time.

FrederickCooke:
Thank you for coming Daniel! We'd love to have you back again!

FrederickCooke:
And good luck with all of your current and future restaurant endeavors!

DanielBoulud:
Thank you too. I have to get back to an urgent tasting menu request, but I've enjoyed chatting. See you at the restaurant, bon soir!

FrederickCooke:
Thanks for coming everyone, and don't miss next month's chat with Miami chef Norman Van Aken on March 10, at 9 p.m. EST.

pinky:
Great chatting with you Daniel. Thanks!

steve v:
thanks for talking, good eats!

M Swann:
Good evening.

gary:
Thanks Daniel, and best of luck on your new restaurant!

Spartacus:
Thank you chef.

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