Perhaps it was just that we'd gotten so comfortable with Bryan Miller. Perhaps we were just having trouble figuring out how to pronounce that last name -- that is, until we heard her doing a review on WQXR (it's like "Rye Chill"). Whatever the case, Ruth Reichl, food critic of The New York Times, did take some getting used to.

What was it at first that irked? The too oozy description of the food she was eating? The too poetic description of her surroundings? Was it that we'd have to read three paragraphs to find out what restaurant was being reviewed? How about the time that she ended an effusive, three star review of Montrachet by proclaiming that it was Montrachet's perfection that denied it four stars (how many double takes did owner Drew Nieporent take after that)?

But we got over it. Why? Because R.R. doesn't just love food, she celebrates it. She revels in it. She rhapsodizes over it. In the end, she finds a much wider range of food acceptable than many of her stature. And, she gets to the heart of what can be wonderful about a meal, which includes a lot more than just the food on the plate.

The review that Ms. Reichl gave of Nobu last September shows her at her best, focused yet still expressive. Here's a sample: "'Do you like my "sorbet?"' the head sushi chef, Masaharu Morimoto, asked me one day, stopping by to introduce his latest creation. The little ball of white fluff looked like ice cream but turned out to be grated turnip with a single enormous peeled grape inside. On top, like the icing on a sundae, was a fan of marinated abalone. Each bite was clean, refreshing, delicious."

Once in a while, her critiques get so prosy and oozy that we can't help but flush with embarrassment. And we were pretty shocked when she said that her favorite New York City meal was one bought from those street vendors. But overall, we appreciate not only her thoroughness (she obviously does her homework), but also her taste buds. Eat on, Ruth.

Ruth Reichl, Food Critic for The New York Times since 1994; Winner 1996 James Beard Award for Best Newspaper Review or Critique.

Located: Friday's Weekend section

Qualifications: Critic for Albuquerque Journal and Atlanta Daily prior to NYT