Some choices for eating out with little ones in NYC: Arcimboldo 220 E. 46th St. (between 2nd & 3rd Aves.) 972-4646 EJ's Luncheonette 447 Amsterdam Ave (between 81st & 82nd) 873-3444 EJ's Luncheonette 1271 Third Ave. (73rd St) 472-0600 EJ's Luncheonette 432 Sixth Ave. (between 9th & 10th Sts.) 473-5555 Gabriela's 685 Amsterdam Ave. (93rd St.) 961-0574 Luke's Bar and Grill 1394 Third Ave. (between 79th & 80th Sts.) 249-7070 Main Street 446 Columbus Avenue (between 81st & 82nd Sts.) 873-5025 The Odeon 145 W. B'way (Thomas St.) 233-0507 Popover Café 551 Amsterdam Avenue (between 86th & 87th Sts.) 595-8555 Sarabeth's Hotel Wales, 1295 Madison Ave. (between 92nd & 93rd Sts.) 410-7335 Sarabeth's The Whitney Museum 945 Madison Ave (75th St.) 570-3670 Sarabeth's 423 Amsterdam Ave. (between 80th & 81st Sts.) 496-6280 Saloon 1920 B'way (64th St.) 874-1500 Two Boots 37 Avenue A (between 2nd & 3rd Sts.) 505-2276 Two Boots 514 Second St. (between 7th & 8th Ave,) Brooklyn 718-499-3253

Recently, I went out to eat with my family -- including my 6-month old niece Olivia -- and discovered what parents are up against when they eat out with babes and toddlers. We went to a huge, noisy, mall restaurant called Bugaboo in Albany, New York. As expected, the steak tasted like shoe leather. Then again, nobody even noticed the baby carriage -- or the grandfather behind it -- which kept circumnavigating the dining room. So it was perfect, despite the dismal food.

"It's important to find restaurants where you won't feel guilty for disturbing other diners so you can relax," my friend (and busy super-mom) Toni Iacolucci tells me. Most parents feels more comfortable where there is a noise factor of some kind. Festive music that a tike can bop to also masks the occasional shrieks and cries of a two-year-old. "Booths!" exclaims Toni. She can't say enough about booths because they eliminate the worry of children falling out of their chairs, and lessen the possibility of their running around the restaurant. "Sitting in a booth can increase the pleasure of your dining experience by about 50%."

I bet that's one reason why diners are so popular with young families. Another reason parents like diners is kids eating habits. "Kids tend to be persnickety eaters, and diners tend to be very accommodating," adds Marilyn, my friend in LA, reminding me of one of my visits when we went to the Ships Diner with baby Otto. Then, he was teething, screaming and cranky. Now aged four, Otto has a delightful temperament and loves to dig into turkey burgers. In New York, Toni goes to the Metro diner because "it's clean, it's fast, the food is good, and the waiters come to life" for her 7-year -old son Gian -- who she's been taking there since he was in a Rock-a-roo. Gian likes how the waiters say, "GOOD choice!" when he orders his burger.

Many restaurateurs bend over backwards for parents with small children. Main Street (NY) understands the need to feed children quickly, for example, and "welcomes" kids to the table with mini -pizzas. Italian and Mexican restaurants tend to have quick service. If you haven't been to a particular restaurant with small children, call ahead. Ask if they have booster seats or high chairs, and find out the best time of day to come in with a stroller. A children's menu, crayons, toys, and stuffed animals are nice, but a welcoming attitude is better. With a little research you will find that it is possible to enjoy good food, even with a babe or toddler in tow.