The codes of the New York power lunch are in flux, not only because more female executives are inviting out clients -- and being courted themselves -- but also because of recent budget cuts and tax laws that no longer make it fully deductible. Monica McCabe, a partner with Reid & Priest, LLP, tends to take clients to reasonable restaurants rather than big name places. "People are no longer going to Lutèce on a general basis," she finds.

"The price of the lunch is now scrutinized much more closely," agrees Jane Cotton, in-house counsel for The Bank of Tokyo-Mitsubishi. Cotton, who doesn't eat meat, says male associates usually take her to steakhouses. If it's her choice, she favors Japanese. However, the patriarchal Hatsuhana left a bad taste in her mouth. "They can be rude in seating unescorted women," she charges. "I have been denied the opportunity to sit down if my male companion is not there." She complained about it to management to no avail. "I think if I were a male incomplete party I would have been seated right away. "The snub hasn't kept her away, though. "I had planned to boycott it but it's so delicious."

Monica McCabe had a different unsavory experience at the renowned L'Ermitage where she was treating two female associates. "I got the check and it looked out of whack," she remembers. "When you're on a business lunch it's awkward to quibble about the check, but I care about charging my company too much." She requested an itemization. "Our waiter ran around the restaurant for twenty minutes, then came back and said the computer wasn't working, but suddenly our check was $20 lower. There was basically no apology. I thought it happened because we were younger looking women and we wouldn't go over the bill that carefully."

The U.S. government is going over bills so carefully that the Washington power lunch is for all practical purposes kaput. Lara Stroud, a Washington lobbyist, said that the recent $50 lobbying cap has drastically reduced the daytime social scene. "It's changed the whole landscape. People just aren't taking other people out anymore." The federal statute also prohibits government officials from receiving expensive gifts and tickets to sports events.

Though more restricted, taking lunch is still a fixture in New York. "'Power lunch' is a misnomer in a way," says McCabe, who values the opportunity to exchange ideas and make connections outside of the office. And at times, lesser-known places can be more appropriate for such meetings. "Some places, like Bouley, get such rave reviews that they're overwhelmed so the service goes down and it's not an enjoyable experience." McCabe's preference? "Sushi at Kiiroihana because it's convenient and unpretentious. Men seem to care more about the prestige of a restaurant than women do."

Top 10 Power Lunch Spots

Aquavit: 13 W. 54th St., (212-307-7311)

Capsouto Freres: 451 Washington St., (212-966-4900)

China Grill: CBS Bldg., 60 W. 53rd St., (212-333-7788)

Cité: 120 W. 51st St., (212-956-7100)

Dawat: 210 E. 58th St., (212-355-7555)

Four Seasons: 99 E. 52nd St., (212-754-9494)

Kiiroihana: 23 W. 56th St., (212-582-7499)

Michael's: 24 W. 55th St., (212-767-0555)

Remi: 145 W. 53rd St., (212-581-4242)

River Cafe: 1 Water St., (718-522-5200)