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Autumn Wines, American Reds
by Julian J. Clark
The cool crisp days of fall bring to my mind not only brilliantly colored leaves but also wines of tones red, yellow (the whites) and gold (dessert wines). In far past years Thanksgiving feasts would conjure up thoughts of great white Burgundies and red Bordeaux. These days American wines are more to the forefront. Perhaps it is value or perhaps taste, maybe both. Here's a round-up of my favorite reds, some suggestions for food to go with them and recommendations from wine lists of some restaurants that have great selections of American wines. And as a caveat to the food suggestions, remember three things as you read: I like to drink wine; I like to drink red wine; I like to drink red wine with all types of food (except dessert).
Merlot (M): American merlots share many cabernet flavor characteristics but are usually less intense, complicated and require much less aging Two to four years is fine. As merlots are similar to cabs, they team well with many of the same foods, but since they are generally lighter-bodied try them with blander cheeses like brie and with stronger tasting fish like salmon or bluefish. Zinfandel (Z): An American grape not found in Europe, the wines are fruity, with a strong berry taste and a full-body. They can be drunk young. In addition to cheeses strong and mild, strong fish, stews and roasts, zinfandels go very well with Chinese food (when you're ordering in) and with poultry. Pinot Noir (PN): By French law, pinot noir grapes are the only grapes that can be used in reds produced in Burgundy. In recent years, Americans have been making very good wines from this grape. But, do not expect to get a wine as full-bodied as a great French Burgundy. American pinot noirs are fruity, often reminiscent of cherries, and medium bodied. Pinot noirs go very well with lighter flavored foods such as shellfish, pork and veal.
Incidentally, all of these are wonderful with turkey. And, if the wine you've just opened is too acid or tannic, serve it with a salad. The dressing will calm down (cover up) these potentially harsh attributes in the wine.
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Cabernet Sauvignon (CS): These are the main grapes grown throughout much of the Bordeaux region of France. In both France and the States, the wine made with these grapes improves with aging, usually between three to seven years. Cabs tend to be
the most expensive American reds but some producers also make low priced blends. They are full bodied (heavy in the mouth) and the driest of the reds. Cabernet sauvignons are often described as having a complex mixture of flavors including berry, wood,
mint, tobacco. When still young they also may have a lot of tannin (causing your mouth to pucker) and acid (causing a sharp sensation on the front of the tongue). Cabs team up well with roasts, stews, and strong cheeses. 
Sirah: In America, sirah grapes are blended with practically all red wine grapes (and certainly all listed here) to make wines that are sometimes referred to as Rhone Rangers as they resemble Chateauneuf-du-Pap which is produced in the Rhone valley
of southern France. The names of the individual wines are also often whimsical -- like "Le Cigar Volant" (The Flying Cigar). Sirahs are full bodied wines with intense flavors. Some people find them too intense, but not I. I usually drink these wines
shortly after buying them (who can wait?) and therefore I do not know the effect of aging (on the wine; I know its effect on me). Sirah is at home on the range, i.e., great with steaks and barbecues. 
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