My associations to "Summer W(h)ines" are: "My sunburn hurts" from my daughter; "I can't stand the sand in my hair and on my skin" uttered by my wife; and from me, "Oh no! Not another bottle of semi-sweet Rosé."

Summer or not, there is no way I can get to like those semi-sweet and "Blush" wines that are so ubiquitous at this time if the year. I don't know why they are so popular in the summer.... maybe it's their resemblance to soda pop; maybe wine sellers think people who are hot and sweaty crave sweet flavors in high temperatures. In fact, sweet beverages of any kind are less advisable in the heat as they tend to cause dehydration due to their high concentration of sugar (greater osmolarity, to you physiologically minded).

Excluding "gin and tonic" from this discussion, in the summer I like to drink fruity wines; wines that have a lot of fruit in the bouquet and taste, wines that are light -- not complex -- and go well with the cold salads and spicy barbecues of the season. (The difference between "fruity" and "sweet" is like the difference between Orange Perrier and Orange Soda. The former is not sweet but has the aroma and slight flavor of orange.)

Light, fruity wines appeal to the wandering summer mind as well. Complex wines require more attention from the imbiber. To enjoy them fully, you should analyze the flavors, aromas and aftertaste. You might sit and ponder "was that a whiff of tobacc o or of cedar?" Summer is not the time for such weighty matters. It is a time to sit in the shade and sip an aperitif of German Rhines or Moselles. Stick to those labeled "Kabinett" or the slightly sweeter "Spatlese." Reliable producers include Muller, J. Strub, Dr. Becker, and Prum.

The Alsatian whites are a great choice for summer as the combine a lot of fruit with a dry taste. These wines go well with all foods except desserts, which merit intensely sweet wines such as Sauternes. Gewurtztraminers are my favorite but also try Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Tokay de Alsace. Reliable producers include Hugel, Trimbach, Leon Beyer, and Zind Humbrecht.

California summer wines to me mean young, sprightly Sauvignon Blancs. I find the Chardonnays too heavy. I like those of De Loach, Kenwood, Ferrari-Carano, Mondavi, and Napa Ridge ( a real bargain at about $6-7). Also try Hogue Cellars and Columbia Crest from Washington.

If you must drink Rosés, try those from Provence or Tavel in France.

As for Reds, I prefer Beaujolais which can be served slightly chilled, and Zinfandels which tend to be fruity. Favorites include Preston, Ravenswood, Ridge, and another bargain, Sutter Home.

Most wines cited are in the $8-12 range.

Enjoy!