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Daniel Boulud -- Daniel (NYC)
It was on his family farm in Lyons that Boulud developed his life-long appreciation for the freshest seasonal ingredients. In the kitchens of his mother and grandmother, dishes were created out of what was ripe and ready, and some of the greatest meals were invented simply because little else was available. Boulud recalls the smells of the outdoor markets he frequented as a boy. "If you closed your eyes, you knew where you were walking," be it towards earth-covered mushrooms, musky garlic, or sweet bell peppers. Boulud stayed on with the caviar set at Le Cirque for six years before leaving to open his own restaurant, Daniel. His departure from Le Cirque caused an uproar in culinary circles. Initial reviews of the new Daniel focused more on rumors of an acrimonious breakup between Boulud and Sirio Maccioni (the charming but decorous proprietor of Le Cirque) than they did about the food, but Boulud dismissed the rumors gracefully, explaining "I was at the top of the ladder at Le Cirque, but I fulfilled my duty there and it was time to leave." Within a year, Daniel had come into its own, emerging as a favorite spot for Manhattanite celebrities and "visiting royalty." Daniel was named restaurant of the year by Bon Appetit Magazine, and Boulud was honored as the Best Chef in America by the James Beard Foundation, and, in 1994, won his second New York Times four-star review. In August, 1997, he and Francois Payard opened Payard Patisserie and Bistro, a butter-colored boîte garnering rave reviews for its Rockwell-designed dining room as well as its take-home desserts. As his own boss, Boulud is now entirely able to honor the changing seasons in his highly polished cuisine, combining hearty French classics like rabbit and foie gras with such American regional fare as pumpkin soup with chestnuts and wild rice. His cookbook, Cooking with Daniel Boulud, also encourages using fresh, seasonal ingredients rather than importing foods for the sake of a dish. Boulud's menu at Daniel always includes a list of the day's market specials, which allows the chef to follow in his grandmother's use of the ripe and ready. While Le Cirque remains an homage to culinary hedonism, at Daniel, Boulud has moved away from the sumptuous to the simple and seasonal. For Daniel Boulud, food is a celebration of flavor and freshness, a freshness that is luxurious in its own right. |