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Waldy Malouf -- The Rainbow Room (NYC)
While Malouf is fascinated by the history and culture of the Hudson Valley (he lives in Pound Ridge in a converted log tavern), he is a chef and not a historian. Most of the recipes he did find -- for example, the original recipe for his now-renowned onion-walnut muffins -- were "terrible." So Malouf went to work to revise and improve them, trying to remain as authentic as his palate would allow. And the results are truly delicious, as many throughout the city will attest. Malouf learned his trade from earlier positions as chef at restaurants like La Côte Basque and The Hudson River Club, where he was executive chef. As Chef/Director of RAINBOW!, Malouf is able to combine his love of game and local ingredients like wild mushrooms, apples, and berries with traditional dishes that represent the hallmarks of American haute cuisine. A lover of foie gras, he prepares it both in cold terrines and sautéed whole lobes. He purchases his livers, however, not from the Perigord region in France, but from Ferndale in upstate New York, the site of America's only major foie gras farm. And, when he reinvents classic dishes, he always succeeds. For example, Malouf's rich interpretation of lobster thermidor helped earn The Rainbow Room a three-star rating from New York Times restaurant critic Ruth Reichl, the highest food rating The Rainbow Room ever received. Malouf's cuisine is all about linking tradition and history with sophisticated culinary techniques, organic produce, and contemporary tastes. This cooking, echoed both in Malouf's cookbook and in each seasonal menu at The Rainbow Room, is both researched and experimental, nurtured by the abundance of the Hudson Valley, the rich traditions of American fine dining, and his own bountiful vision. |