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Since the goal at fine restaurants is for the table service to be nearly invisible, most customers do not consider how this goal is achieved unless something goes wrong (in which case they might express their displeasure in the tip). In fact, the system of waiting on tables is not unlike the finely tuned hierarchy that operates in the kitchen. That is, the work required to present the food properly is divided into several tasks, each carried out by a different person, that come together to form a seamless whole.

The service system used by the renowned New York restaurant Lutèce demonstrates how table-service may be divided amongst a "team" and orchestrated in a way that achieves service that's as impeccable as the food.

Each table is attended by a captain, a "service" waiter (who is in charge of providing all necessary utensils), a second waiter, and a busboy.

0. The guests arrive and (during cold seasons) give their coats to the checker. The hostess greets them, leads them to their seats, and distributes menus.

1. Immediately, the service waiter takes the initial drink order. All subsequent orders will be taken by the captain, but, since this initial act of attention to the guests must occur right on time, it is best for the service waiter to do it. This way, if the captain is occupied elsewhere, it does not inconvenience the guests. After this, split-second timing is not as critical because guests will either have a beverage or food to occupy them.

2. The captain keeps an eye on the guests, watching how they handle their menus to determine whether he should approach. Menus left lying on the table indicate that the guests are not yet thinking about their meal choices and are still settling in. Once they begin to examine the menus, he goes to the table, tells them the specials, and provides any information that may be requested of him. He either takes the order then or leaves the guests to further deliberation.

3. Once the order is taken, a copy is posted for the service waiter, who studies it to find out which utensils and glassware will be used during the meal. His goal is to anticipate every need of the guests. If he sees they have ordered red wine, he brings the proper glasses to the table before the bottle arrives. If three of five people have ordered soup while the other two have chosen oysters, he places the soupspoons and oyster forks before the food is brought. He also monitors the diners' progress throughout the meal, so that he can send word to the kitchen indicating when subsequent courses will be needed.

4. The second waiter conveys a copy of the order slip to the kitchen. Throughout the meal, he brings food and drinks to the table as they are ready.

5. The busboy makes regular circuits among the tables, filling water glasses, bringing bread and butter, and helping to clear dishes.

When all these steps are done correctly, the diners experience a seamless event -- just the right wine suggestions and menu recommendations, the simultaneous appearance of each person's main course at the perfect moment after the empty salad plates have been cleared, dessert offered precisely when the diners (their conversation uninterrupted by the removal of their dinner plates) have begun to suspect that they could possibly eat another bite.

Reading List:
1. Professional Table Service by Sylvia Meyer, Edy Schmid, and Christel Spüler. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1990.

2. Lutèce: a Day in the Life of America's Greatest Restaurant by Irene Daria. New York: Random House, 1993.