"Abundance of meat had one bad effect. It made the bourgeois cooks, the Mrs. Beetons and the like who dominated English food, despise some of the tastiest and cheapest portions of bullock, sheep and pig. These were left to working-class families, and in time, as they became better off, working-class families began to buy such things only for their cats and dogs. The situation now is that carcasses come to the chain butchers as if the animals had never had heads, tails, feet, or insides, or fat. English meat cookery needs to bring back its old ways, its pre-nineteenth century ways, of dealing with everything from sheeps' heads to pigs' tails and pigs' ears. We're also inclined to forget the point of mixing different cuts, cheap with less cheap -- for instance, belly of pork with stewing beef for the sake of the succulent blandness it gives to the gravy, and the contrast of texture -- smooth pork fat with fibrous beef. And we need to remember how well some of the cheap cuts of meat combine with poultry -- one good example is the serving of boiled salt pork with roast turkey or chicken. Nowadays butchers legitimately complain that their customers want nothing but steak and chops; the butchers themselves begin to know less and less about the finer points of their trade."