Italian cheese in its most distinguished form -- mozzarella di bufalo -- certainly has the attributes upon which aphrodisiacs base their mysterious attraction. It may not quite reach the heights of those witches' brews which tempt the sexually sluggish with this fusion of hope and alarm: "Take several brains of male sparrow," Aristotle instructs, "and pigeons that have not begun to fly" -- these to be boiled with turnips and carrots in goat's milk, and then sprinkled with clover seeds. But authentic mozzarella di bufalo is rare, and rarity (plus difficulty of access or extraction) is the thing.