A brief history of what is now Mexico begins with her Indians: Aztecs, Mayans, Toltecs, and Zapotecs being their most illustrious representatives. These cultures were highly advanced and produced great botanists, farmers, scientists, and engineers, among other achievements. They developed chocolate, beans, corn, chiles, pumpkins, and many other crops that would become major players in the world of eating, trade, and politics. In 1519, Cortes arrived. Along with rape and carnage, Cortes and his followers also brought wheat, pigs, cattle and their dairy products, rice, and Catholicism. It is perhaps momentous that the Spaniards, in a jealous attempt to protect their own olive oil and wine trades, forbade the cultivation of grapes and olives in Mexico, where they most certainly would have thrived.

Today, both pre- and post-colonial ingredients are put to work during the five food breaks that traditionally puncuate a day in Mexico. And while most people don't partake of them all, each is worth considering. Early in the morning, before going to work, one drinks a cup of coffee, strong and filled with milk, perhaps with a sweet roll. This snack is not meant to be breakfast, it's just an eye-opener. The first major meal of the day comes only after a few hours work. At around 11 am, one sits down to almuerzo. This is a substantial meal that might include eggs poached in a poblano chile broth; black bean huaraches (deep-fried, sandal-shaped, turnovers) with eggs and tomatillo salsa; or eggs scrambled with potatoes, bacon, and rajas (roasted red peppers coated in cream and cheese). It is accompanied by coffee or fruit juice. Back to work. At two in the afternoon comes the big meal of the day, comida corrida. Four courses lade the table, and then fill the belly of the eater, who must retire to a long siesta immediately afterwards. He doesn't return to work until five or six in the evening. At seven he might take in a light snack, equivalent to tea or a coffee break with a tamale or pastry. At night comes the final meal of the day, cena, meaning something like supper. This is a light meal of leftovers from lunch, some soup, or a taco. It is often skipped altogether. Of course, if there is a feast or celebration, cena becomes an all-night affair.