A Restaurant Timeline
There is an age-old hospitality industry in
western culture. After all, as long as people
have had to travel so far from home that they
couldn't sleep in their own beds or eat at their
own tables, there have been entrepreneurs making
a living by providing bed and board in exchange
for money. The idea of the whole family leaving
the home to eat a meal in a public place just
for fun, or even for convenience, is much
newer, though. (As with many other things -- the
moveable type printing press and gunpowder among
them -- the concept appears to have existed in
the East for centuries before it arrived in
Europe.) The following timeline features just a
few high points in the story of the restaurant,
which has taken on so many forms and become so
much a part of daily life.
- 960 to 1279 Sung
Dynasty,
China
- In the great Sung dynasty cities, Kaifeng
and Hangchow, a fully developed restaurant-going
culture flowers.
- Late 14th century England
- In Geoffrey Chaucer's The Canterbury Tales, a
group of travelers enjoy a jolly meal at an inn.
Afterwards, their host secures their further
patronage by encouraging them to engage in a
tale-telling contest. The winner is to have his
meal paid for by the others when they return to
the inn -- a clever promotional scheme.
- 1368 to 1644 Ming Dynasty,
China
- Tourism becomes a popular pastime. People
travel for curiosity and enjoyment, and
restaurants are in demand. They also offer
take-out food and are frequently called upon to
cater events at wealthy patrons' homes.
- 17th century America
- The Tavern in the Colonies
As in the Old World, there are plenty of public
houses in Colonial America that are popular
gathering places for men. Beer is the primary
item served, but meals are available, but, the
patron has little choice in the matter of what
food he will get to eat.
- 1688 London
- The Coffeehouse and Commerce:
England
The first known reference to Edward Lloyd's
coffeehouse on Tower Street appears in a London
paper. Lloyd's clientele includes so many
merchant shipowners and maritime insurance
agents, who meet there to do business, that it
becomes increasingly identified as the place to
conduct insurance transactions. In 1771,
ownership of the coffeehouse passes into the
hands of the professional insurance underwriters
and becomes, officially, Lloyd's of London.
- 1698 London
- Gathering in Public for Business and
Pleasure
Although in the mid-17th century coffee, tea,
and chocolate were almost
unheard of in England, by 1698 there are 2,000
coffeehouses doing booming business in
London.
- 1762 New York
- The Tavern Kitchen in 18th Century New
York
Samuel Fraunces opens a public house in a
building at the corner of Queen and Canal
Streets (where a restaurant still operates under
the name Fraunces Tavern
today, although the structure has been for the most part rebuilt,
and the streets have been renamed Pearl and
Broad). It is a time when catering services are
uncommon, but it is said that the Fraunces
Tavern regularly sends meals over to George
Washington's quarters nearby.
- 1765 Paris
- The Arrival of the Word "Restaurant"
A Parisian soup vendor named Boulanger offers a
sheep's foot soup that he calls a
restaurant (a restorative soup). The
members of a competing guild of traiteurs
(shop keepers at who sell prepared food for
take-out) claim that his soup is, in fact, a
ragout -- a product which is, by law, only
allowed to be sold by traiteurs -- and
they initiate a
lawsuit. However, upon deliberating the matter,
the judges decide that Boulanger's dish does not
fall into the ragout category. If anything, his
business is only improved by the publicity
aroused by the uproar.
- 1782 Paris
- The Concept of the Restaurant Arrives in
the West
A Parisian traiteur named Beauvilliers
decides to expand his shop, La Grande Taverne
de Londres. He sets up a number of small
tables and offers his customers a selection of
different dishes, which are served up on the
spot.
- 1784-1833 France
- The First StarChef of the Western
World
Antonin
Carême is known as the "Cook of Kings
and the King of Cooks." In spite of the fact
that he came of age during the French Revolution
and worked his way up from great poverty, he is
not a man of the common people; he travels far
and wide to serve in the noblest kitchens in
Europe. He cooks for Talleyrand in France, the
Prince Regent of England (soon to be King George
IV), and Czar Alexander of Russia, among others.
He writes extensively on gastronomy and designs
dishes and confections that are eye-catching in
the extreme. He is often credited with being
the founder of classic French cuisine.
- 1789 Paris
- Fall of the Bastille
The French Revolution is often given credit for
bringing restaurants to the masses. Highly
trained chefs, unable to continue working for
the wealthy patrons who have become the victims
of the uprising, must find a way to live in the
new democratic society. Many turn entrepreneur
and serve the food once reserved for the
nobility to anyone who is able to afford
it.
- 1794 New York
- The Coffeehouse and Commerce:
America
The Tontine Coffee House opens at the corner of
Wall and Water streets. Within a few years it
becomes the favorite hang-out of the group of
speculative investors who later establish the
New York Stock Exchange.
- Early 19th century
Europe
- The Restaurant as a Way of Life
By the 19th century, restaurants are fully
incorporated into the comfortable lifestyle of
the middle and upper classes. In 1825, in
France, Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin defines
the restaurant as a convenience in the modern
lifestyle. At restaurants, he points out,
diners can choose from a greater variety of
dishes than can be made available in the
home.
- 1825 Philadelphia
- Birth of the Soda Fountain
Elias Durand, a pharmacist, begins offering his
customers seltzer water remedies that are
intended to be taken at his drugstore.
- 1827 New York
- America Introduced to Fine Dining
John and Peter Delmonico decide to open a
restaurant, offering businessmen an elegant, hot
meal at lunchtime. For almost an entire century,
the Delmonico's restaurants set the standard for
upscale dining in the country.
- 1868 Chicago
- Luxury on the Railroads
Having met with overwhelming success with his
luxurious sleeper cars for trains, George
Pullman introduces the Pullman dining car.
These cars provide a plush mobile restaurant for
those railroad travelers who can afford it,
complete with formally trained waiters and
chefs. They feature
menus that vary according to the fresh local
produce available along the route.
- 1872 Providence, Rhode
Island
- The First Stage in the Evolution of the
Diner
Walter Scott, a food vendor, decides to sell his
wares from a horse-drawn wagon, in order to save
himself the labor of having to return home to
replenish his supplies during business
hours.
- 1876 Topeka, Kansas
- Respectable and Affordable Dining for
Travelers
Fred Harvey opens his first restaurant at the
Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe railroad depot in
Topeka.
- 1890 New York
- The Ultimate in Gilded Age Opulence
Louis Sherry, a confectioner, opens a restaurant
and hotel. Eight years later, he moves his
business to Fifth and 44th Street, where he
oversees some of the most lavish dining events
ever staged. Sherry's is where the New York
Horseback Riding Club held their famous
horseback dinner in 1903, the tab for which was
$50,000.
- 1893 New York
- The Cult of the Maître D'
The newly built Waldorf-Astoria hotel opens its
lavish mirrored dining room. It is managed for
years by Oscar Tschirky, who is credited with
being the original high-profile maître
d'hôtel, known for coddling famous
favorite patrons and snubbing the
less-than-glamorous.
- 1893 Chicago
- Birth of the American
Cafeteria
At the World's Columbian Exposition in
Chicago, John Kruger opens a self-service
restaurant based on the idea of the Swedish
smorgasbord. He chooses to call it a
cafeteria (the Spanish word for coffee
shop).
- 1898 New York
- Cafeteria-Goer's Helper
William and Samuel Childs introduce the tray to
make it easier for the customers in their
self-service restaurants to carry their meals to
the tables.
- 1902 Philadelphia
- High Technology Enters the Cafeteria
The Horn and Hardart company opens the first of
what will be a chain of "automats." At these
self-service restaurants, the food is obtained
from coin-operated, food-dispensing machines
imported from Germany. The appeal of such a
gimmick in this era of fascination with
cleanliness and
newfangled technology is that the food
seems never to have been touched by human
hands.
- 1912 Providence, Rhode
Island
- The Diner Takes Its Place at the Side of the
Road
Lunch wagons have become so numerous that they
block the city's streets, so a law is passed
requiring them to be out of traffic by 10:00
a.m. In order to keep serving throughout the
day, many wagon owners park their vehicles
permanently in abandoned lots, and workers come
to them.
- 1916 Wichita, Kansas
- From Diner to Chain Hamburger-Joint
Walter Anderson opens a diner with a menu
featuring hamburgers. By 1921, he is in search
of a business partner to help him finance a
fourth diner, so he joins forces with Edgar
"Billy" Ingram. They name their enterprise White
Castle.
- 1919 United States
- The 18th Amendment -- Prohibition
The act is passed by Congress on January 16 and
goes into effect the following year. Many of the
great Gilded Age restaurants do not survive.
This is the heyday of wholesome family-oriented
eateries such as the cafeteria. People who must
have alcohol with their meals take to the
speakeasies, where the foundations are laid for
the onset of the supper club vogue, which comes
into its own after Prohibition is repealed in
1933.
- 1925 Massachusetts
- Birth of the First Great Restaurant
Franchise
When Howard Johnson, who owns a small soda shop
and newsstand in the town of Wollaston, is asked
to open a second shop in Cape Cod, he hasn't got
the funds. But he persuades a friend to open a
restaurant using his specifications and serving
his products. The idea works so well that he
continues to expand his business in this way.
By 1941, Johnson has an empire of 150 franchises
in the eastern United States from New England
down to Florida.
- 1926 Los Angeles
- Road Restaurant Gimmicks
The Brown Derby, a restaurant that is actually
shaped like a hat, opens in Hollywood. Cobb
salad was invented for the Brown Derby
menu.
- 1929 New York
- From Speakeasy to Supper Club
'21' opens in the location
it still occupies today. This is actually the
fourth enterprise for its owners, Jack Kriendler
and Charlie Berns, who started with two
so-called "tea rooms" in Greenwich
Village. As their clientele grew increasingly
lustrous, they changed locations to accommodate
them. Their first club was at 42 West 49th
Street ('42'). When the building was scheduled
to be razed to make way for Rockefeller Center,
Kreindler and Berns threw a New Year's eve
party, at which guests were provided with axes, crowbars
and mallets so that they could celebrate
midnight with an orgy of demolition. '21'
begins its life as a speakeasy, and the owners
are never caught in a raid. They outfit the
building with special mechanical cabinets that
rotate to hide the liquor whenever the alarm is
given that police are on the way.
- 1934 New York
- "Continental Cuisine" Comes to
America
The Rainbow
Room opens at the top of the RCA Building at
Rockefeller Center. At this deluxe supper club,
the menu features dishes with a European flair,
and the dance floor is illuminated with flashing
colored lights that are activated by the notes
played on the organ that is the centerpiece of
the orchestra.
- 1936 Oakland, California
- The Rise of the Theme Restaurant
Victor Bergeron, owner of a beer parlor called
Hinky Dinks, decides to take advantage of the
mania for theme restaurants that is sweeping
California. After a field investigation of Los
Angeles hotspots, Bergeron reopens his business
as a Polynesian-theme supperclub and changes the
name to Trader
Vic's. The tiki room concept turns out to
be so popular that Bergeron soon has a whole
chain of Trader Vic's restaurants on his hands.
Bergeron is also credited with having invented
the Mai Tai.
- 1938 Chicago
- Everyone is Welcome, but Some People are
More Welcome than
Others
Ernest Lessing Byfield opens the Pump
Room at the Ambassador Hotel. His concept
is to create a lavish atmosphere where all
levels of society will mingle, and he models it
after the Pump Room spa in Bath, England.
Nevertheless, he adheres carefully to a fashion
in evidence at such places as '21' in New York,
and designates a rigid hierarchy of seating.
The famed Booth One is reserved for only the
crème de la crème, and if no one
with the star power of, say, Marilyn Monroe or
Cary Grant appears during the evening, the table
sits empty. Byfield increases the excitement of
the event with his -- literally -- flamboyant
presentations of the food. Even if the order is
as mundane as hot dogs, it often arrives with
the ultimate fanfare on a flaming sword.
- 1939 New York
- Haute Cuisine Arrives in
America
The 1939 World's Fair opens in Flushing, Queens,
featuring exhibits sponsored by 60 different
countries. Many of the countries include
restaurants serving local dishes in their
exhibit pavilions, and the most popular
restaurant by far is the one at the French
Pavilion, where the waiting list for a
reservation can be several weeks long. This is
America's first close-up glimpse of the
traditional French chef system, and it is the
event responsible for bringing the soon-to-be
culinary giants, Henri Soulé (who will
open Le Pavillion in 1941) and Pierre Franey,
into the country.
- 1948 San Bernardino,
California
- The Invention of the "Fast Food"
Concept
Fed up with the erratic quality of the people
they have hired to work at their roadside
hamburger restaurant, the brothers Richard and
Maurice McDonalds decide to reorganize. They
fire all the carhops and trim their menu from 25
items down to feature hamburgers, French fries,
and milk shakes. From this time on, customers
have to park and walk inside to get their food
themselves. In 1952, in the process of
redesigning the building, they add the
distinctive "golden arches." And in 1954, they
are bought out by Ray Kroc, who builds the
concept into a mega-empire.
- 1950s America
- The Soda Fountain Conquers Middle
America
A whole culture rises up around the soda
fountain counter at drugstores. It is now quite
common to sell ice cream drinks, which have
become more popular than the medicinal
concoctions ("fizz water" came to be known as
Alka Seltzer, and a "CO cocktail" is made with
castor oil and soda) that originated the
concept.
- 1972 Ithaca, New York
- Restaurateurs with a Social
Conscience
A group of friends who gather regular for
collective meals decide to open the Moosewood
Restaurant as a community project. In keeping
with their political beliefs, it is a completely
cooperative venture. The food served is
vegetarian, and the owners make particular
efforts to introduce dishes based on the
cuisines of different countries.
- Reading List:
- Food in Chinese Culture: Anthropological
and Historical Perspectives by Kwang-chih
Chang (editor). New Haven, CT: Yale University
Press, 1977.
- Larousse Gastronomique: The Encyclopedia
of Food, Wine, and Cookery
by Prosper Montagné. New York: Crown
Publishers, Inc., 1961.
- America Eats Out: an Illustrated History
of Restaurants, Taverns,
Coffee Shops, Speakeasies, and Other
Establishments That Have Fed Us for
350 Years by John F. Mariani. New York:
Morrow, 1991.
- "Reporter at Large (Cafeterias)" by Jane and
Michael Stern. The New
Yorker, August 1, 1988, pages 37-54.
- From Boarding House to Bistro: the
American Restaurant Then and Now
by Richard Pillsbury. Boston: Unwin Hyman,
1990.
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